Physical? Digital? Virtual? The Masterminds of Fashion Show Production Weigh In on Runway’s Future

Paris's digital couture and menswear presentations will take place the first two weeks of July, promising videos from member brands. Milan's menswear week will follow from July 13-17, and video content will be a key facet of what a digital fashion week will look like there, too. But brand-produced fashion videos have existed for some time: The platform Nowness launched as a hub for this type of mood content in 2010 and ShowStudio, founded in 2000, hosted the first livestream of a fashion show in 2009. Is there anything more, anything newer?

On May 22, designer Anifa Mvuemba debuted the first virtual fashion show for her brand Hanifa, featuring 3D renderings of pleated minis and sinuous bias-cut dresses. The show was unlike anything fashion had seen before: No audience, no visible models, just fashion fully rendered in a rich virtual space.

Gayle Dizon, whose company Dizon produces shows for Proenza Schouler and Mansur Gavriel, is certain that new technologies like CGI, 3D design, image capture, and body mapping have potential to revolutionize what a fashion show looks like. "We've been exploring a lot of these new technologies that are all kind of rooted in gaming," she says. "I'm excited about it because we can alleviate a lot of the issues that we face with live physical space," she continues, citing venues and build-outs alongside the bustle of fashion week that makes scheduling, timing, and seating a major concern. "We've been trying to break the standard pattern of straight runway up and down for a while … Now, what I've been tasking my team with is: Let's start ideating on our dream scenario. Where would you do a show if you had no constraints of time, space, or location?" Russo, for his part, says, "what is exciting for us isn't specifically one alternative or another, but the exercise of mixing options in order to produce the right format for each project, for each client, according to their DNA and their needs … there will be no ready-made but only tailor-made options."

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